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1.8T Modding guide
I have compiled a list of engine mods that can be done to the 1.8 20VT, this guide mostly relates to the later 1.8T with the DBW motors, but can be used as a guide for the non DBW as well.

This list came up after me doing a fair amount of research and testing on my previous car : seat ibiza cupra 1.8 20VT . I thought it would be beneficial to 1.8T owners to know what can be done to their cars

The mods that i will list here will no way be brand related or tuner related, but i will state where i have got them from and what price i paid also with a link to the product if possible to further your knowledge on the products or DIY. I was stupid when doing this old build because i did not do any dyno runs before and after and did not document it well, but i have driven my car extremely hard, have taking it to tracks days and it has proved to be extremely reliable and stupidly fast on and off the track. My goal then was to build an extremely fast but reliable everyday car that is did not need to run Octane booster or race fuel mix or play with settings when i raced, i used one map for daily,racing,track racing etc . I NEVER EVER changed a map or adjusted it for different race conditions.

SW : This by far is the most important mod you can possibly do, this works by overwriting the stock ECU program with a new one from a tuner which will alter boost, timing, fuelling etc . The aggressiveness of the file wil be tuner / owner dependant, some tuners will boost the living daylights out of the tiny stock turbo in an aim to make power, but making max power is not the main goal IMHO. My thoughts after stage 1 file was loaded : The car was totally transformed, it so much more drivable and smoother between gears, it was more fuel efficient as well. The power was in a diff ball court all together from stock, torque came in much faster and the car pulled hard all the way till redline . The best mod by far.. Expect to pay between R2500 - R4500 for stage 1,1+ SW . remember its not only about loading a file and getting max power out of it, you also have to consider drivability, reliability and tuner after sales. theres no point in having a fast car when it will crack manifolds when driven hard or a car that will surge like a mofo every time you put your foot down. I had the unitronic stage 1+ file which costed around R4500 at that time. SW stages are also relative to the mods you have on your car which is also sometimes different from tuning house to tuning house in terms of software requirements above stage 1+.

Downpipe : This mods will replace the stock 50mm ( i think its 50mm) downpipe from the turbo to middle box and will also remove the CAT , this will allow the turbo to spool up much faster and allow the turbo to spin more "freely", think of it has partially blocked drain pipe, when its blocked water takes time to go down, but when its clean , water is free flowing and has no interruptions, also mid range to top end power will be increased and the car will pull much harder on top end. With a DP, the car can be tuned abit more and will drastically increase mid to top end power. The debate about whether to do 76mm or 63mm is up to you, I personally had a 76mm DP on my car, it was silent and almost stock sounding... verry sleeper sounding. expect to pay between R1500 - R3000 depending on the shop. Also look out for fly by night kind of DP's, stick to the norm shops, a poorly designed DP will drone and make you go deaf inside the car as well break flex's and crack when driven hard for long periods. I had an experience 76mm DP which costed me R3000 at that time

Full Exhaust : This will see the removal of the two std back boxes and replaced with two new free flowing boxes with either 63mm or 76mm piping. Car will sound much more wilder and growl more, some say that full exhaust is not neccesary for power, but it does, it might not add massive amount of kw, but will allow the car to rev up faster on top end and not have any restrictions. Can cost between R2000 - R4000

CAI ( Cold Air Induction) : This is almost like a free mod, the most common way to do this is to get a 90 degree silicone bend with a cone filter, remove the top of airbox , attach silicone bend to MAF and cone filter with the filter inside the bottom of the airbox. This will let the turbo breathe a better as well as give some dumping and swooshing noises ( its pointless to have a turbo car that dont make noises) . My opinion was that car was a abit more free revving and low down responsiveness was improved. Also fitting the PD160 intake pipe from front grill to airbox will help with more air goin to airbox, ive seen guys using 76mm flex tube as well.. either way the goal is to allow more air to enter the bottom of the airbox. This can cost between R200 - R500 , this costed me R300 .. dont expect to see massive gains on a dyno

Forge DV/Splitter DV : this replaces the stock DV which will fail in most cases, the stock DV is diaphragm DV which will tear easily on a chipped car, the forge one is a piston type DV and is much stronger than the stock one. This will allow the car to hold boost much better in the rev range and will in some cases add more dumping noises, i did not however have the forge because i was a cheapskate, i had the motorcade splitter DV which worked well for me, but i wish i had saved a bit more and got the forge one. Price for the kit including springs is around R1200 - R 1600 for the Forge 007 or Forge 008 DV.

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FMIC : ON the cupra's the FMIC is more than enough, but for other cars with the tiny SMIC, an upgrade to a FMIC will really help with power (because of the drop in temps) and help to eliminate heat soak. Expect to pay between R2000 - R5000

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TIP (Turbo inlet pipe) : This mod replaces the the stock TIP from MAF to turbo inlet, the stock TIP is weak and will collapse under heavy load / top end .The Forge one is silicone with metal rings inside the silicone, this will not collapse at all and will allow the turbo to breathe much munch better, turbo will spool up munch faster and the car will pull harder through out the rev range, this is a verry good mod overall and will make the car sounding like jet. I got mine second had for R1000 on gumtree but expect to pay around R1800 - R2200 for the forge one.

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WMI ( Water/Methanol injection) : This to me is a verry important mod , a WMI kit will inject a mixture of water/meth (the mixture is dependant on user) into the intake, this will cool the intake air temps and bump up the fuel octane level . By cooling the intake temps down, it will allow the engine to operate much more efficiently and safely, this will also eliminate heat soak . With WMI , the car can be tuned again, more timing and boost can added for more power in the rev range. Common misconception or fear of using WMI is that you will constantly need to monitor the level of “WM” you have, with the progressive kits available nowadays you only “consume” WM depending on how you drive and how soon you get into boost as well as where your boost “start” level is set.

The above mods are the most common mods done, below i will list the extra mods that can be done to add reliability and allow the engine to operate more efficiently as well as add to a better driving experience.

NGK BKR7E spark plugs : This is colder spark plug than the stock and is beneficial to chipped cars that operate under high boost, will allow the car to use spark better . To me it made the car rev more smoothly and somehow sounded less painfull. expect to pay between R450 - R800 for set of 4. Colder plugs are also very beneficial to use along with WMI.

Intercooler pipe : This pipe replaces the stock square pipe that is not a straight free flowing pipe from the intercooler to the silcone pipe that joins to the TB , this is called the "throttle pipe". This will allow a better flow of boost from intercooler to TB which will increase the mid range to top end torque and power on the car, again dont expect massive kw gains. my opinion was that it made the car pull like a mofo, i was spiking at 1.4 the entire second gear at some stages, engine responsiveness also increases, I got my FORGE cooler pipe from yosh and paid around R1600 at that time ...

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SAI, N112,N246 delete : this does not really give any power, but will allow the engine to operate better, in most cases give a smoother drive, these valves open and close while driving to regulate boost and try to maintain desired boost setting in the engine, but these interfere with smoothness in chipped cars, by removing it i felt the car was much smoother between gear changes and the engine bay looked better and cleaner without it, in most cases a 35w resistor will need to be plugged into the wiring so that the ECU wont throw a CEL.

Forge short shifter and solid bushes : This was such a fun mod, it will alow the throw ( up down movement) of the gear lever to be decreased, makes the car feel so much more sport and race like ..... i got mine from yosh and paid around R1400 at that time for it

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Liqui moly engine oil and gearbox oil with gear protect : To me it made the car queiter and gearbox changes are better .

ABF Flywheel & VR6 clutch : The best flywheel and clutch combo ever for a 1.8T 5 speed . the std dual mass flywheel will eventually give up and send vibration through the car, also the dmf will need to be replaced after time.. by replacing it with the SMF flywheel from ABF/G60 , the flywheel will never need to be replaced again. This also is a bit lighter than the std DMF ( around 1.5kgs i think, dependant if skimmed or not etc) and will allow the egine to rev up faster, the VR6 clutch is much bigger than the stock clutch and will with stand much more torque from the engine, plus its bigger and adds more bite. I felt that gear changes were insane after this couple with the short shifter, i could change gears without no drop in boost or power and it put power down almost instantly, gear changes were more precise and direct, and the best part of all was the VR6 clutch was so much softer than std one, sitting in traffic was so much better. I did my kit at dubsport and R5400 with installation

Liqui moly DOT 5.1 Brake fluid : a complete brake fluid fluch is needed , this will give the brake pedal a much harder feel as well as the clutch will feel more direct and less "spongy"

These above will add to the driver experience, below i will explain a cheater mod which i think is a Pu$$y way of making power, i have not tried it and will never advise anyone to try it, but its a mod that local guys have done, so il explain it.

The diode mod : With some guys they only do SW , DP ,FMIC, Intake .... but leave out the rest as their goal is to make max power and break all the time ....
The way this works is that a 4.7v diode is connected to the MAP sensor, what happens is that when the ECU is programmed to boost max 1.5bar, the MAP sensor will send a 5v signal when it passes 1.5bar, and the ECU will close throttle to maintain and stabilize boost , but by adding a 4.7v diode , the ECU will never see above 4.7v signal for over boosting and will leave the car to run without any interference , this will allow you to boost the tiny k03s till it breaks, also coupled by this the wastegate is tightened shut and will never open, so the car will be boosting its ass off, what they also do is add a 4FPR or S3 injectors to the system to try and avoid the car from running lean.. These mods WILL BREAK the car, manifolds will get cracked, the wastegate will eventually get welded shut from the heat. and then you will eventually run to another tuner and ask him fix up the mess. Its easy to get power like this, also easy to break the car.

the above is my own views and things that can be done, if anything that i have said is incorrect, please correct me as I would like to expand my knowledge.
Absolu Car Care | 083 403 2781 | | http://www.facebo...olucarcare
I don't even drive a petrol but hell, this was an interesting read. You the man Nemo!
2008 Leon Cupra - Candylicious
2007 Ibiza Cupra TDi - La Diabla

Starter Pack: 2008 Ibiza 1.6 Sport
Ahhh the infamous diode mod LOL!!
Nice write up bru, had most of these on my 1.8T also.

May would be good to include the Throttle Body Pipe also?
And Forge 1.8T actuator if there is but good work!!
Current:08 Inferi Black Leon Cupra
EX:08 Zenith Grey IC 1.8T
EX:99 Fiat Uno Mia 1.1

Bullrun - KZN area manager and PR
Clap Nice write up. You got way to much time on your hands...
07 SEAT Ibiza Cupra 20V Magico Black 1st Owner Since New PFFFT
18/06/13 181WKW & 388NM @ HRD
Currently awaiting cosmetic upgrades

Tuned by: DARK ARTZ Performance

SEAT Dropbox Folder

any suspension tips B)
Edited by mojo on 17-04-2012 16:34
'09 Audi A3 1.8t Sportback - STOCK ,okay its got sound now
EX - '08 Ibiza Cupra
Durban Stock with standard 20v Curse
I have a question.
How can i get a quote for Turbo inlet pipe for my IC TDI ??
Will it be the same inlet pipe for the IC TDI that the 18T is using?
Wow...this is a good read... I drive a diesel with and this sounds good, very articulate...bravo Nemo

Can we also get someone who can do something similar for 1.9tdi's especially FR's I would also like my car to be a on the mean side....
LEON FR (stock I think)
Fly wrote:

I have a question.
How can i get a quote for Turbo inlet pipe for my IC TDI ??
Will it be the same inlet pipe for the IC TDI that the 18T is using?

Not the same pipe ;-)
Current: Limestone Grey G7 GTi Revo stg3
357whp & 537nm
13.3 @ 186 km/h
241km/h 1km sprint

SOLD: Chrono yellow Leon CUPRA
REVO Stg 2+ : Powerflow DP : Full 76mm zorst : Evoms intake : DevilsOwn WMi Progressive kit : KMD HPFP : BSH PCV Fix :H&R ultra low kit : Neuspeed Hi-Flo K04 Discharge pipe : Revo Throttle pipe : Twincooler : Hubbly lip : K1 boot spoiler : RS4 FPR : Forge actuator : 19" Vossen V5 :
256wkw & 488nm @ ALB
1km sprint at ODi: 239km/h
13.5 @ 182km/h at ODi

SEAT Ibiza Cupra 1.8T
76MM Wildcat DP : Unitronic stg 2 : Samco TIP : Custom induction : Forge spltr DV : H&R's : 20mm rear spacers
mojo wrote:


any suspension tips B)

20mm rear spacers and 10mm front spacers.. thats what i had, car handled extremly well on track..

you could do front strut brace, whiteline rear anti roll bar and some ploy bushes
Absolu Car Care | 083 403 2781 | | http://www.facebo...olucarcare
Wow, I got a stock 1.8T IC. This is pretty much all I wanted in one read. BIG thank you! ClapThumbs Up

Current: 2008 SEAT Ibiza Cupra 1.8T
Ex: 2004 Opel Corsa C GSI
Ex: 1994 VW Golf mkIII GSX
thanks bru yoh that is exactly wat i wanted to know and thanks to you i never need to bother asking anymore info. thanks againThumbs Up
Nemo wrote:

mojo wrote:


any suspension tips B)

20mm rear spacers and 10mm front spacers.. thats what i had, car handled extremly well on track..

you could do front strut brace, whiteline rear anti roll bar and some ploy bushes

awesome ! dude you are a legend this write up is awesome :D I have front strut and 20mm rear spacers so far , still needs some more - i love corners :D
'09 Audi A3 1.8t Sportback - STOCK ,okay its got sound now
EX - '08 Ibiza Cupra
Durban Stock with standard 20v Curse
AHH, Thanks Nemo, you're a champion! :)
seanz wrote:

I don't even drive a petrol but hell, this was an interesting read. You the man Nemo!

+1 Clap

Very nice write up.:D
2008 K1 SEAT Leon Cupra Stealth Tuned

Ex:2008 SEAT Ibiza Cupra TDI 6ix4 tuned
Ex:2005 Opel Corsa Lite (How i miss the Lite side of life)
Very good read, thanks Thumbs Up
You can live in your car, but you can't drive your house!

08 Leon Cupra
Revo Stage 2+

08 Ibiza Cupra 1.8T
Revo Stage 2

08 Ibiza 1.6 Sport
this thread still
Absolu Car Care | 083 403 2781 | | http://www.facebo...olucarcare
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