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Capacitor ?
When should a capacitor be part of a sound system?
And what size amps in terms of watts eg 2000w,should it be used?
I believe that for every 1000w RMS you should have at least a 1F capacitor.
And I am not talking about calibra or star sound "1000watt" systems either.

If you are running just a 4 channel amp, then it is unnecessary to have a capacitor.
However, if you are running a monoblock, which should be at least in the region of 200 - 300w RMS, then it isn't a bad idea to run a 0.5F or even a 1F capacitor, it will help
smooth out the subwoofers response, but it will not fix any problems you might experience without a capacitor (ie. lights dimming when you have a deep bass note).

Hope this helps.
2006 BMW 323i ///M Sport

ex : 2008 Mazda 3 MPS
ex : 2007 BMW 120d - RF Sound
ex : 2007 IC 1.8T - custom sound & interior
ex : 2000 Alfa Romeo 145
IMO Ive always put a stiffing cap in the equation when the car has anything less than a 65amp alternator!!!

Current: 2012 Nissan NP200 1.6 16v S

ex: 2007 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 FR
ex: 1989 VW Golf Mk1 2L 16V 111.5Kw 200Nm
ex: 1983 Austin Mini 1000cc (vrek slow)
ex: 1986 VW Beetle 1600 twin port
ex: 1976 VW Beetle 1600 single port
Michael Scholtz
I have been out of the loop with sound for a while now. So I may have confused thisng a little.

The cap can be seen as a device to smooth out power surges. I can store alot of voltage for a time. It's not a battery but more like a power reserve.
the Idea being that if your system suddenly needs more power to hit a deep bass note it can draw the power from the cap. so it's a bit like a dam.

I have no idea what the specs are for a cap but I did have one connected to a system I had installed about 12 year ago ( at that time rockford only made amps and no one could afford them) so getting a cap for sound was almost impossible
the one i fitted was simply the biggest I could find and it was not nearly big enough. It actually had a detrement to the sound quality as it prevented more than a certain amount of power getting to the amp and thus It could not hit the deep bass notes. It did however "smooth" out the system nicely. But ultimately I removed it.

What I am trying to say is that a cap is most worth while but make sure you get a decent one.
Thanks guys.

Im running a 400RMS amp with a 1F AudioBank cap.. works perfect,but plan on running a 1500RMS monoblock soon..
A 1500W RMS mono amplifier?
What kind of subs are you planning on using that beast for, what makes of woofer and amplifier?

Personally I don't see the point of going that big unless you are planning on competing in SPL, and why would you want to do that to a car as nice as a Seat Shock
2006 BMW 323i ///M Sport

ex : 2008 Mazda 3 MPS
ex : 2007 BMW 120d - RF Sound
ex : 2007 IC 1.8T - custom sound & interior
ex : 2000 Alfa Romeo 145
Still deciding on what sub to use.. And as for the SPL well i plan on making this maybe the first SPL SEAT around..?
Michael Scholtz
I used to have a nissan exa had one 12" SVC sub fitted in the wheel well and a 500w (150w RMS) amp running it. I can really remember but at a sound off it managed about 130Db. That would make your ears bleed so I can't understand the desire for that much sound.

But to each their own. As long as you cover your back number plate in double sided tape so is wont rattle what you pump the bass with your windows up I can't complain. - My one pet hate is a rattling number plate, It just screams I almost did it right, but cant hear what I did wrong.

Good luck with the SPL thing would love to see pics when its done.
IMHO , It doesnt matter weather it's a 4 channel , 2 channel or a block . It depends on the continous RMS rating as well as that under highest load. If the amp can go low,then it's gona a killer on the battery. I have 1 x RF 552 IX (approx 100 x 4 rms or so,IIRC ) , 1x 12" RF P2 DVC, 4 x P1662 Mids , 8 x power tweets . The amp is fed by an Audio Control 3.1 , so i got's the RMS line out voltage to drive the amp solid. Initially I had no cap ,recently I put in the RF 1 farad .. A major difference in quality as well as SPL from the sub . Also, circuit voltage does not fluctuate as bad as it did before.
On modern cars , you dont want the voltage to drop below 13 or so volts , that's gona cause kak...
You ous shud sell the sound and buy a bigger turbo:D Better sound:D
Forced induction is a way of life
Why settle for boring, when you can drive a UNITRONIC SEAT?

My Ride
1st SPL seat u say....:P well,
i was the 1st. search for my past posts.
152db plus in my silver 2lt ibiza with only 2x 12's and 1 amp:D
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